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Welcome to round four of The Great Shacket Sew-off! For this round I will be sewing Logan from Style Arc. Style Arc is an Australian based pattern company. This pattern has no style variations included in the pattern. The website describes the pattern as an oversized jacket with drop shoulders. It has a curved back yoke and inseam pockets
Price: Varies from $9.52-$12.85 depending on the format and size option chosen
Sizes available: 4-30 Australian (Equivalent to 0-26 US)
*You can choose to purchase one size (includes a size above and below for grading) or one of three size ranges (4-16, 10-22, or 18-30)
Pattern format: Digital PDF and paper format
What is included: The digital files included are a tutorial, tiled pattern pieces for home printing, AO files, and a single sheet/wide format for a copy shop. The paper format includes a hard copy of all pattern pieces and instructions that are mailed to your selected address.
Style/size Sewn
I went with a size 12 since my hip and waist measurements fell closer to a size 12 size range and only my bust measurement was in the size 10 range. Also since my shoulder birth was into a much higher size, I decided to go with the larger size. As you have noticed, shackets are designed to have a boxy fit so if my measurements don’t vary greatly between sizes, I won't worry about grading!! I also added 2” to the body and sleeves to account for my height.
My Measurements:
Bust: 37”
Waist: 32”
Hip: 40.5”
Shoulder birth: 16”
Height : 5’9”
Pattern Size Chart
Fabric and Notions
The pattern is drafted for woven/ non-stretch fabrics. The website suggests using boiled wool, denim, corduroy, linen, or flannelette.
I chose to use this shirting flannel and this fusible interfacing from Joanns.
You can find the flannel I used here: https://www.joann.com/bright-warm-tones-buffalo-check-plaid-shirting-fabric/18767384.html
I used these faux coconut buttons and used the 2cm size.
The pattern only gives fabric requirements for 58” wide fabrics. It suggests 2.5 yards for a size 12. I used a 44” wide fabric and used about 3.5 yards.
Instructions
The instructions are very lacking and consolidated. They do not break down the instructions into multiple steps. There are only 19 steps for the entire pattern. Many of the steps should be broken down further for easier understanding. The illustrations are also separated from the written instructions, forcing you to jump back and forth from the illustrations to the written instructions. Some of the illustrations do not match the actual pattern pieces. The instructions also do not include any information in regards to differing seam allowances or hem allowances- everything is marked with lines on the pattern pieces.
Pattern
Was the finished garment what you expected?
For the most part, yes. It ended up being much more oversized and longer than expected, but it did look similar to the listing photos.
What did you like or dislike about the pattern?
- Pros
- The curved back yoke is a very unique detail.
- The construction is relatively simple and quicker than many other shacket patterns.
- The sleeves we just turned under and hemmed. This made the construction much simpler. I also often prefer to roll my shacket sleeves up, so this is great for that!
- You are able to purchase a hard copy and have it mailed to you. This is great so you don’t have to send it off to a copy shop or spend extra time piecing pages together!
- Cons
- There is no projector file.
- The files do not have layers. This makes cutting the correct size very challenging.
- The pattern pieces include a cut line and a stitch line (seam allowance guide) on every size. This makes it extremely jammed and hard to find the correct lines and markings for your needed size, especially when you can not select certain sizes with layers as mentioned above.
- The purchasing options are odd in my opinion. I personally would not want to receive only a few sizes, as sizes vary through one body size, as well as body size can change quite a bit over time.This may be more beneficial if there was a larger monetary savings when not purchasing the multi-size option.
- The instructions are flipped to a landscape view. Unless you print them off, you have to read them sideways on a computer. Everything else is in portrait view, so it does not make sense to change the layout just for the instructions.
- The size chart is not in the actual instructions. You must look it up separately on their site. I also could not find the height it is drafted for. I eventually figured it out by emailing the company for the information. This information should be available in each pattern.
- The patterns only offer a CM calibration box. While I understand this is an Australian company, it would not be hard to include inches as well.
- The listing states that the sleeves have an option fold over cuff, however there are no instructions or markings in the pattern on how to omit the fold over option.
- The inseam pocket construction is way over complicated. The instructions also state to sew on a set, when it should be only one pocket piece, not a set. A basic inseam pocket construction would have worked just fine and given the exact same results.
- The seam allowance is drawn with a dashed line on all pattern pieces. When seam allowance varies from the state ⅜”, there is no mention of this in the instructions. The varying seam allowances are also not stated with a measurement on the pattern pieces.
- The collar does NOT fit. When it came time to attach the collar stand the the neckline, the collar stand was almost 2” too short. I saw this as a possible issue while looking at the reviews and the company was not helpful in fixing the issue. They responded to these reviews by stating there was not issue with the pattern and to watch a video for help. I watched the video and it was not helpful at all and there was not way the collar was going to fit. I ended up creating a box pleat in the back neck to get the collar to fit.
- They do not have Facebook group or any other type of community for their customers to connect and ask for help. If this would have been an option, I would have most likely been able to get answers to any questions I had much quicker.
Would you make this pattern again?
No, I will not be making this pattern again. As stated above, I had many issues and complaints with the pattern. While I am mostly happy with the outcome of the final garment, the pattern was way too hard to use and had many issues within the pattern- the largest being the collar is not drafted correctly. The pattern pieces were way to congested and hard to cut out and the instructions were very lacking. There are other patterns and pattern companies that I will go to before coming back to Logan.
Have you sewn the Logan Shacket before? If so, what are your thoughts on the pattern? Please share them below if you are comfortable! Also, if you have shared your finished garment on Instagram, please tag me! I’d love to see your beautiful creations!